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It is now clear that the modern bicycle is a type of versatile machine, using for transportation, fitness, recreation, employment, and competition.
Cycling gives a lot of health merits, such as leg strength, developing cardiovascular functioning, coordination, balance, plus improvement in mood. It may also help in weight management.
People who are living in occasional climates, the bicycles lay dormant at the time of colds months and resurfaced in the spring.
If you go out for the first ride of the season, take some time to be ready for your bike on the road.
The basic maintenance tips may aid to ensure an efficient and safe ride for all seasons.
Inspect your brake system
The brake is a very important part of a bicycle as it gives control over speeds at the time of riding. It saves you from the accident.
Controlling speed lessens the possibility of an accident. It also gives a cyclist to maneuver while riding up, turning up and down on hills and escape debris and other obstacles.
What to do: At first, see the brake pads, the rectangular rubberized component which rubs before the metal rim.
Bicycle brakes may wear down over the time as the brakes of the bicycle. You have to replace them. As pads are wearing evenly use a flashlight to enter.
If you see a ridge or smooth wear pattern, you should adjust the brakes. When you see excessive wear, replace them. Then, squeeze the lever of the brake and see the pads.
At the same time, they should hit the rim. If you do not get it, you may adjust the brake levers arm of the tire.
You see much slack for the cable a the time of pulling the brakes and roll out the barrels’ adjuster to the last of the lever to adjust tension for the brake cable, to reach the brake more rapidly.
A weak braking system bike may lose control over it and cause accident and serious wound.
If you come to the end that the bike is not working properly, you have to change it or stop it. Bring it is a bike shop for repair. If you see the brakes are not working properly, stop riding it.
When you come off the bike completely, get off the bike and call for a lift or walk home. Before ride it again, please repair the bike to make fit.
I am not indicating finger, but the mountain bike you are using is dirty. Your foremost and first even easiest task is to clean it.
Before reaching the cleaning supplies, bring your bicycle outside. It may seem a messy job for you.
Keep it on a bike stand; you may hang it from a tree or flip it upside down as it keeps balance on the seat as well as handlebars. Now hold the necessary supplies.
- Chain Scrubber
- bicycle cleaning brush
- chain lubricant
- degreasing solvent
- dishwashing liquid
Give much attention to the drivetrain and spray few degreaser to the chain if it’s rusty, greasy and dirty. If you apply degreaser, be sure to make it dry prior you lube it once again.
Wash the body of the maintain bike, so it is free from caked on the muddy materials. Be conscious to escape your headset, hubs and bottom bracket with water.
The water of these part may lead to internal rust. It is not very good. If you once the bathe the beauty of a bike, make it towel it thoroughly.
If you do not keep in mind routinely lube the bike, you are keeping yourself up for some problems down the road.
Over-lubricating or under lubricating both may cause the bike to stop riding evenly. Below there are some tips to use the right amount of lube for your bike.
- Do not use very thin or very thick lubricant for your bike.
- Squeeze few drops to the top and the bottom of every and each chain link.
- With one hand spin the pedals backward and catch the lube with other for the easy and quick application.
- By the help of a rag remove the excess lubricants. A normal thin coating of the chain may way to move if you do not live in a rainy environment.
Some other areas of you bike require lubricants as well. If you lube the chain, pay attention to the bike cables.
When water or rain makes inside the cable housing, it will rust. A few drops of lube where the brake cable will enter the housing may suffice.
Changing from easiest to the hardest gear may ensure you more slack to tug the cables out of the housing bit so that you may use the lube.
Pivots on the rear derailleur and the front may merit from lubrication. Keep the spot of lube anywhere to see the movement as you shift it.
Finally, keep in mind the idea of pedals. If you like to remove the pedals, use a couple of drops of lube on the threads which screw to the crank arms.
- See the bike down and up and search for anything which looks amiss- tighten the loose bolts, such as the chainring and crank arm.
- See to play where the headset and fork meet. Keep your right hand on the spot and use the other hand to the front brakes. Roll your bike backward and forward with the help of the right hand. As there is play, lose the steam bolt and tighten your headset.
- Remove anything that implies the sign of wear especially grips, tires, and pedals.
- Be sure the hubs are working well by ensuring your forward wheel giving wonderful push- it may spin freely. Notice for the lateral play of the wheels by jiggling them off the side to side.
- Please, never forget to check the tire pressure before hitting the trial. You may get the required psi printed on the side of the tire.
Brakes function as your main stopping mechanism. Thus, we cannot overstate how important it’s to have them completely working. Begin by assessing your brake pads for excess use and assessing your wires for extending. Disc brakes have pads that wear over time, to examine them to be sure they don’t need replacement. When the pads look shiny, it may be valuable to eliminate them in the calipers and lightly apply a bit of sandpaper to come back some feel. When the pads measure less than three millimeters, for example, their alloy holder, then they have to be replaced.
Verify the rotors for almost any debris and dirt and then clean them with rubbing alcohol, then gently scuff them as you did the brake pads. Now, assess how straight they’re ideally, they ought to be massaging every brake pad evenly. Ensure that the bolts which attach the rotor into the wheel are comfortable, too.
You will now need to safeguard your brakes are coordinated correctly. Squeeze every brake lever onto your handlebars and observe as the pads hit the rim. Can they beat the wheels in precisely the same moment? Otherwise, they are likely to require an adjustment.
As an alternative, you can correct the brakes together with the brake pressure screw found on one of the brake lever arms. Use a wrench to fine-tune every brake pad’s place. Do you need your breaks to respond more quickly? You are going to have to remove slack in the cable.
Check tires and wheels
Inspect your tires for indications of wear, such as fractures, cracks, or tears. When there is not much tread remaining, you might think about buying new tires for this season. Casings frequently wear out previous tires, so do a comprehensive review of their sidewalls, too. Additionally, there are unique designs readily available for sale, which help decrease the danger of a flat tire.
When you’re done exploring your tires, it is essential to look at your brakes. Look about your spokes to be sure they are in good shape and provide them a squeeze to guarantee equilibrium. Assess for hairline fractures as they can pose a more significant problem down the road.
It is imperative that your bike changes gears readily and does not have some hiccups from the changing system. The main problem you’re looking for is loose string tension. Here is the way to test with this: Place your bike on a rack and change into the smallest cog. The series should jump into another cog, but when it does not, you will want to execute another half an hour.
Now check all the bolts on your bike to be sure they are not very tight or not over tighten. If they are tight enough, do not use force to make it more tightened.
You need to check the important areas of your bike such as levers, handlebars, stem, shifters, seat post, seat, derailleurs, breaks, pedals, and cranks.
Mountain bike tune up checklist
- Notice the bolts and grip the handlebar with the stem. As there is 4 of them tighten them by removing the crisscross pattern. Be sure that the gap between the stem and the bar is consistent. Check the real torque amount of your bar, especially if you are shaking carbon bars up front. Suppose the Race Face wants 55 to 65 in/pounds
- Ensure the torque on the steering tube clamp bolts- I use 65 to 70 in/lbs for my tube clamp. Notice carefully whether the steering is to the right position or not.
- As you have full suspension bike the time comes to see the bolts and pivots for accurate torque. Most people do not understand that many of these bolts are an alloy or some other materials which may be constantly damaged. If more force is given on them, be careful and better to use a wrench.
- Notice the rear damper to see leaks and correct sag as well. Observe the bolts which hold the constraint to the right location to accurate torque. To see for sag at first correct the O ring on the shock for all the way to the top and after that regulate on the bike- do not bounce. Calculate the distance and get off the bike from the O ring with the air sleeve.
- Transfer the front derailleur with the middle ring and notice the spacing between the top ring and the cage-it would not be more than 4mm and not less than 2mm. check 2 times which derailleur cage is similar to the chain rings. Notice there is no crud like tiny twigs or leaves which may stop the face derailleur from functioning.
- Examine the chain of bent links and stiff links. As the chain is bent it would be best to have a new one.
- Notice your cassette for wear and bent teeth. As your teeth look like sharks teeth this is the time for a new cassette. This is a good time for upgrading. The picture above is the picture of Sram 990 cassette with991 chain- best quality except breaking the bank.
- Notice the torque of the rear brake caliper bolts same as you do on the front wheel. The mounting bracket is torque with the frame about 110 in/lbs, and most of the calipers are the same.